The last years I got an addiction that has spiraled out of control and it’s certainly here to stay!It’s called ‘culinary travel’ which basically means I travel to taste different food. I’ve jumped wholeheartedly on the bandwagon and today I’d like to take you with me on one of my culinary trips in Belgrade by presenting you the 3 top restaurants to visit in Belgrade!
1// Tri Sesira
Tri Sesira is located in one of the most visited areas in Belgrade, Skadarlija. It is impossible not to wander around these cobbled streets and have a nibble with a glass of wine when in the Serbian capital. I am going to write more about Skararlija on my ‘Travel Guide to Belgrade’ because I want to make this post about the 3 top restaurants to visit in Belgrade rather than the city itself.
Tri Sesira means three hats in Serbian and it is one of the older restaurants in the area, established back in 1864, that is now a synonym of Skadarlija! Inside it has beautiful walls covered with framed pictures of all the famous people that have visited the restaurant and a few traditional instruments. The tables are lined with red tablecloths and the chairs are made out of dark brown wood.
The day we visited it was really hot, so we decided to sit outside in the big garden front. Our table was under the big umbrellas by the flower wall and we had a clear view of the entire street of Skararlija.
The waiters were dressed smartly in black and white and served us some cool water and bread before placing our order. The menu is really easy to read and has loads of traditional dishes and local specialities that our waiter was happy to describe, like the Monastery Chicken, that is stuffed chicken fillet with beef prosciutto and cheese breaded walnuts. After careful consideration, we eventually went for the Skadarlija salad as a starter, followed by a grilled seabass for me and grilled salmon for my sister.
The salad was a traditional twist of the Ceasar’s salad with fresh grilled chicken sliced on the top. It was more than a main dish than a salad and we both felt bad that we couldn’t finish it as our main dish portions were equally huge. There’s only as much you can eat on a sunny, hot day, right?
Both our fish dishes were fresh and delicious. My seabass looked more like a trout and when I asked the waiter if he had confused our order he explained to me that this is a local variety of seabass and people usually confuse it to trout! It was served as a whole fish on a silver tray, accompanied by thickly chopped potatoes and green vegetables on another dish. The waiter served it on our table and then got a big knife and fork out of his pocket with which he proceeded to get the fish of the bone. However, I interrupted his job and told him I’d rather do it myself as I love eating slowly and appreciating every bite of my food. In my family, my mother would never clean the fish from its bones and she would serve it in a similar way so it’s very natural to me to enjoy a fish meal by little fork bites of the fish bone. My sister’s salmon was served on a layer of fried chips and grilled vegetables, topped with a citrus sauce and she enjoyed it very much.
We washed everything down with some local, red wine and decided to go against any desserts as we were so full we could barely get off our chairs.
We were told by the waiter that at nights they have live music and people dance around the tables, matching the bohemian and romantic scene of Skararlija by night, so if you happen to be in the area then I’d totally recommend you make a table reservation for night.
In my blogging life I have been invited to many restaurants. From Thai street food to 5′ star fine dining, I have tried and loved them all. However, never in my entire life have I been to a restaurant that has such a unique interior!
Lorenzo i Kakalamba deserves a place at the 3 top restaurants to visit in Belgrade not only because it has weird (and awesome at the same time) decoration but mainly because it has equally unusual food.
The whole story and concept of Lorenzo and Kakalamba’ is based on the conflict between Florence and Pirot. The whole idea came from one simple and sincere promise of a caring husband to his beloved wife at the beginning of the marriage: “Honey, I can promise you one thing: You will never be hungry!” This is a family run business that won multiple wards and recognition due to the enthusiasm and passion of its owners.
With an impressive, clumsy, colourful, quirky and beautiful in its own way interior this is definitely the place to be when visiting Belgrade!
After a day of exploring Belgrade, we arrived at Lorenzo i Kakalamba with hungry stomachs, so we ordered a bit more than we should but loved every single bit of it! The restaurant offers superfoods as well as traditional dishes. We got from the menu the Wellness salad, that was a baby salad with beetroot, nuts and cheese. Fresh, juicy and full of health! We also got the Toscana salad that was similar to the Wellness with the difference that it had pecorino cheese and it was topped with aceto balsamico! It had a good contrast of flavours and we really enjoyed them.
For mains, my sister had a beautiful served soup, the half/half vegetable soup that was half beetroot and half pea soup topped with sour cream and croutons. It was too pretty to be eaten but she went for it! I ordered my all time favourite, spaghetti frutti di mare that came with more prawns and seafood that I had ever imagined. Filling and very tasty!
However, the biggest hit of our night was the Sikter Dish! If you are Turkish or Greek reading this then I am sure you are already laughing because Sikter in Turkish means ‘go away’, so by ordering your dessert you are then expected to go away, hehe.
To order, the waiter comes with a huge poster that includes all the desserts and he explains them one by one. Without doubt, the one thing that stands out from the entire menu is the chocolate sphere! A big, rounded chocolate ball that is poured with hot chocolate until it melts and reveals a delicious chocolate cake surprise! If you follow me on Instagram, then maybe you have seen me posting like maniac videos of that night and more specifically of this chocolate bomb surprise but it was so spectacular I couldn’t hold myself! We also got the raspberry cheesecake just because the waitress suggested it and to be fair he was absolutely right. It was sour and very rich. Just what we needed to balance the chocolate flavours in my mouth.
Manufaktura is a modern restaurant based in one of the most popular streets of Belgrade and with so many red umbrellas hanging on top of the outdoor tables area, it is impossible not to see it, stop and take a picture, read the menu and get a table. It is a busy restaurant with live music at nights so a reservation is strongly recommended.
Here we understood what it looks like to serve traditional food with a modern twist! The logo of Manufaktura is ‘Authenticity is a state of mind’ and this is certainly one of the most authentic places to visit in Belgrade!
Manufaktura serves food from many countries, here you can find food from Turkey to Serbia and all the way to Greece! The restaurant is famous for its juicy, roasted and meat as the old Serbian households would prepare it back in the time.
The menu covers all meals of the day from breakfast to lunch and dinner and even if you are not too hungry and just fancy having some wine and a few bites, Manufaktura has a great selection of cold and hot appetizers to choose from.
We ordered fried zucchini with tzatziki, grilled halum cheese (that’s haloumi) and a traditional Serbian salad that came with thickly chopped vegetables and a long, spicy, green pepper on top.
For mains we got a smoked trout that came as a stew with vegetables in a pot (for my sister), and a chicken souvlaki for me. The souvlaki came medium rare with pink meat on the skewer so I had to return it back and ask it to be well done, but the service was exceptional and they were happy to take care of my dish.
The fish stew was juicy and a tiny bit spicy. I asked the waiter what were the exact ingredients but he said that these are the kitchen’s secrets so the best way to describe it is flavorsome, traditional and soft.
We finished everything with a local delicacy dessert, the ‘crempita’ milk pie that was a huge (the size of my head) block of cream with a layer of phyllo on the bottom, topped with sugar. It felt like a millefuille but with more buttery taste as the cream was very rich. They told us this is one of the most popular and traditional dishes in Serbia and something every granny would offer to her grandchildren, much as the rice pudding in the UK.
^ ^ Traditional Serbian salads are served with vegetables thickly chopped and some of them whole like this green pepper and fresh onion ^ ^
We loved our visit to Belgrade and in all honesty I cannot recommend much a visit to this city. We experienced the finest of culinary travel, hospitality and tradition, and all that in the cheapest prices I could have imagined. The average bill per person eating in one of these restaurants is around £10-12 for a 3 meal course (excluding drinks). Considering that in some chain restaurants in the UK, you pay £8 for a starter I found it refreshing to pay these prices and receive so much more than I would back in Scotland.
Thank you Belgrade for treating us to so many unforgettable moments!
*Our meals were complimentary in exchange of a review but all opinions expressed are mine and honest as usual. Thanks for reading this 3 top restaurants to visit in Belgrade Guide!